When we custom design and build fire pits for customers we use a fire pit kit because we are in Florida where most of our clients use propane gas.  The fire pit kits we have been using are limited to 65K BTU’s because that is the limit to how fast a 20lb 5 gallon liquid propane tank is capable of vaporizing the liquid to gas.

However, when we install the same fire pit for a customer with natural gas or with an in-line large LP cylinder they do not love the flame patterns so we have started using a different fire pit kit.

double ring 24 inch burner on 30" fire pit

New Fire pit kit control box with safety valve and ignition module

fire pit pilot improvement

The new features that I love about this new fire pit kit is that the burner is very heavy American made 304 stainless.  Although we have always used 304 stainless materials the gauge of these materials are heavier.

The control valve is in a sealed box whereas the old kit we used was open in the back.  The front was sealed so it looked “finished” when we built the control panlel into a fire pit or a column but inside the structure it was open to the elements and the critters we try not to think about who live in these sealed damp, dank areas… who will sometimes chew through wires.

Also the burner sits low so we are able to pour  lava rock and fire glass on top of the burner.  On this new kit the pilot assembly sits higher so we can pour more media on the burner.  As gas leaves the burner we want it to have to push its way through the media so there is a better flame pattern and an accumulation of gas before ignition so there are not only better flame patterns but better flames.  Also the pilot is mounted easily to allow us to raise it higher if necessary.

Finally the orifice in the safety valve is set for 90K BTU’s and the module is a 9v battery module.  The sealed box protects these controls but the controls themselves are a lot stronger with higher settings so pragmatic day-t0-day use of the custom firepit is more enjoyable with less opportunity for failure.

Electric control valve for outdoor fire pit and fireplace

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When we custom design and build fire pits for customers we use a fire pit kit because we are in Florida where most of our clients use propane gas.  The fire pit kits we have been using are limited to 65K BTU’s because that is the limit to how fast a 20lb 5 gallon liquid propane tank is capable of vaporizing the liquid to gas.

However, when we install the same fire pit for a customer with natural gas or with an in-line large LP cylinder they do not love the flame patterns so we have started using a different fire pit kit.

double ring 24 inch burner on 30" fire pit

New Fire pit kit control box with safety valve and ignition module

fire pit pilot improvement

The new features that I love about this new fire pit kit is that the burner is very heavy American made 304 stainless.  Although we have always used 304 stainless materials the gauge of these materials are heavier.

The control valve is in a sealed box whereas the old kit we used was open in the back.  The front was sealed so it looked “finished” when we built the control panlel into a fire pit or a column but inside the structure it was open to the elements and the critters we try not to think about who live in these sealed damp, dank areas… who will sometimes chew through wires.

Also the burner sits low so we are able to pour  lava rock and fire glass on top of the burner.  On this new kit the pilot assembly sits higher so we can pour more media on the burner.  As gas leaves the burner we want it to have to push its way through the media so there is a better flame pattern and an accumulation of gas before ignition so there are not only better flame patterns but better flames.  Also the pilot is mounted easily to allow us to raise it higher if necessary.

Finally the orifice in the safety valve is set for 90K BTU’s and the module is a 9v battery module.  The sealed box protects these controls but the controls themselves are a lot stronger with higher settings so pragmatic day-t0-day use of the custom firepit is more enjoyable with less opportunity for failure.

Electric control valve for outdoor fire pit and fireplace

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giant infrared rotisserie burner

We get a lot of calls for this particular problem.  The barbecue grill rotisserie burner is the only infrared burner on a lot of barbecues and it is often the only burner that is not a part of the convection burners inside the fire box.  The rotisserie burner valve is not the same valve used on the regular barbecue burners inside the firebox.

Typically the barbecue valve is a simple ball valve with an orifice attached to determine BTU capacity.  The rotisserie burner will have what is called a safety valve because if the vertical position and ability for flames to be blown out.

There are a few different versions of the safety valve.  The most common safety valve is the valve used on gas fireplaces that burner liquid propane gas.  LP must have a pilot and the pilot is used to allow gas to keep flowing.  Most people know the pilot keeps the gas flow safe but we do not always understand how that works.  On a barbecue the same valve is used but the “pilot” flame is the entire rotisserie burner.

All barbecue grills that have a rotisserie will have similar instructions to tells us to push and hold the knob of the valve.  Because the gas flow has to move up and around to the rotisserie burner the instructions will ask is to hold this knob “in” for 10 to 30 seconds.  After that the burner will ignite if the gas has made its way around to come through the burner.

Once the burner is burning the instructions will advise up to continue holding the knob “in” for an additional 30 seconds before we allow the knob to release and use the knob to dial the heat high or low.

Solaire rotisserie control valve

viking bbq grill rotisserie valve

When a customer contacts us at Grill-Repair.com to complain about a problem with their barbeque rotisserie the problem is almost always that the burner is going out when they release the knob.  By holding the knob in the “in” position the gas is flowing but when the knob is released the gas no longer flows.  I have seen all kings of contraption people have created to keep the rotisserie knob depressed while they are barbecuing.  Recently a client suggested that Alfresco distribute a stainless steel 2×4 because he had been using a block of wood so long he needed to replace the 2×4 he left leaning against the grill to hold the knob “in” while using the rotisserie.

The safety valve — or pilot valve — is used as a safety precaution and using clamps, wood, bricks to hold the knob in so gas will flow is dangerous.  Aside from the obvious problem of a block of wood around open flames, aside from the problem of impediments lying around the barbecue to trip us up the original reason for the pilot valve is to turn the gas off if the flames are extinguished for any reason.

DCS rotisserie button and control valve

When we decide to use the rotisserie the first thing we do is turn on the gas to the barbecue.  When we turn on the gas the gas flow stops at the control valves because the control valves are in the Off position.  On a normal BBQ valve we simply turn the knob to open the control valve and allow gas through.  The safety valve also has a ball valve but the safety valve also has a solenoid that continues to keep gas from flowing even when the ball valve is all the way open.  When we hold in the knob we are pushing the solenoid pin to allow gas to flow through the ball valve.  Most barbeque grill safety valves incorporate the safety valve and the solenoid into one process.  DCS uses a ball valve like the other control valves in the barbecue but instead of the valve connecting the flow of gas to the rotisserie burner the DCS valve connects to a button that allows the cook to push the button and hold the solenoid open for gas to flow.

The solenoid inside the rotisserie valve is always going to be in the closed position so gas cannot flow unless something causes the solenoid to open.  When lighting the burner that something is us pushing the knob “in” so gas flows but after 30 seconds from ignition what happens?

Next to the infrared rotisserie burner is the electrode that arcs when lighting the burner.  Next to the rotisserie igniter electrode is another piece of metal that sticks out in the flames.  This is a thermocouple.  A thermocouple is a way of generating a small millivolt charge without using a battery or any conventional means of power.  When specific kinds of metals conduct heat against one another a millivolt charge is created.  The millivolt charge travels through a wire inside a copper sleeve from the tip in the flames all the way down to the solenoid — whether the solenoid is in the ball valve control or in a button that connects to the control valve the thermocouple ends with a piece of steel like a bolt attached to the copper tubing.

Just like in high school physics electrical charge plus copper plus steel equals an electro-magnet.  The threaded bolt that screws into the end of the safety valve magnetizes and pulls the safety valve open.  The flames at the rotisserie burner create a charge and the charge creates a magnet and the magnet pulls the valve open so gas can flow.  Now we can take our hand off the button, off the valve without the flames going out.

When this does not work there are a few things that may need attention.  Initially it is important to check the tip of the thermocouple because carbon deposits generated by burning gas could coat the tip and make it less able to create its millivolt charge.  Also check the copper line for kinks and breaks that stop the millivolt from creating a magnet at the steel tip.  Finally check the threading that screws into the safety valve.  Sometimes it is possible for the heating and cooling to cause expansion and contraction that can slowly unscrew the steel so the magnetic tip is less effective.

If something is damaged or broken and proper maintenance as mentioned above does not help it may be possible to exchange the thermocouple.  It is rare the thermocouple is damaged as the thermocouple has no moving parts.  Without moving parts there is nothing to get damaged or wear out.  However, kinks, bends, dirt and carbon can make the thermocouple less effective.  Also the solenoid can get stuck inside the control valve so that a weaker thermocouple cannot pull it free.  For these reasons sometimes replacing the thermocouple will repair the rotisserie burner.

If the thermocouple is not the problem the safety valve needs to be exchanged.  Like the control valves the safety valve has lubrication in the valve body.  Sometimes over-heating while grilling and grease firs cause the valves to over heat and the lubrication becomes fricive.  In this case the valve has to be replaced.  The safety valve can also slowly become less lubricated or get a little dirt in the body so the solenoid becomes stuck.  If a stronger thermocouple or new item can pull the solenoid free the rotisserie will function.  However, most of the time the rotisserie burner will not stay lit it is because the safety valve itself needs to be exchanged.

As you will see from the images above each barbecue is different and each valve connects differently.  As mentioned the DCS safety valve is a button that connects to the control valve connecting the the gas manifold.  The Viking barbeque grill bolts through the manifold and the Solaire safety valve includes the control valve that screws into threading in the manifold.

Always use high quality replacement parts when repairing your barbecue grill and use certified technical assistance.

http://www.grill-repair.com

954.247.4552

Service@Grill-Repair.com

dcs rotisserie button

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giant infrared rotisserie burner

We get a lot of calls for this particular problem.  The barbecue grill rotisserie burner is the only infrared burner on a lot of barbecues and it is often the only burner that is not a part of the convection burners inside the fire box.  The rotisserie burner valve is not the same valve used on the regular barbecue burners inside the firebox.

Typically the barbecue valve is a simple ball valve with an orifice attached to determine BTU capacity.  The rotisserie burner will have what is called a safety valve because if the vertical position and ability for flames to be blown out.

There are a few different versions of the safety valve.  The most common safety valve is the valve used on gas fireplaces that burner liquid propane gas.  LP must have a pilot and the pilot is used to allow gas to keep flowing.  Most people know the pilot keeps the gas flow safe but we do not always understand how that works.  On a barbecue the same valve is used but the “pilot” flame is the entire rotisserie burner.

All barbecue grills that have a rotisserie will have similar instructions to tells us to push and hold the knob of the valve.  Because the gas flow has to move up and around to the rotisserie burner the instructions will ask is to hold this knob “in” for 10 to 30 seconds.  After that the burner will ignite if the gas has made its way around to come through the burner.

Once the burner is burning the instructions will advise up to continue holding the knob “in” for an additional 30 seconds before we allow the knob to release and use the knob to dial the heat high or low.

Solaire rotisserie control valve

viking bbq grill rotisserie valve

When a customer contacts us at Grill-Repair.com to complain about a problem with their barbeque rotisserie the problem is almost always that the burner is going out when they release the knob.  By holding the knob in the “in” position the gas is flowing but when the knob is released the gas no longer flows.  I have seen all kings of contraption people have created to keep the rotisserie knob depressed while they are barbecuing.  Recently a client suggested that Alfresco distribute a stainless steel 2×4 because he had been using a block of wood so long he needed to replace the 2×4 he left leaning against the grill to hold the knob “in” while using the rotisserie.

The safety valve — or pilot valve — is used as a safety precaution and using clamps, wood, bricks to hold the knob in so gas will flow is dangerous.  Aside from the obvious problem of a block of wood around open flames, aside from the problem of impediments lying around the barbecue to trip us up the original reason for the pilot valve is to turn the gas off if the flames are extinguished for any reason.

DCS rotisserie button and control valve

When we decide to use the rotisserie the first thing we do is turn on the gas to the barbecue.  When we turn on the gas the gas flow stops at the control valves because the control valves are in the Off position.  On a normal BBQ valve we simply turn the knob to open the control valve and allow gas through.  The safety valve also has a ball valve but the safety valve also has a solenoid that continues to keep gas from flowing even when the ball valve is all the way open.  When we hold in the knob we are pushing the solenoid pin to allow gas to flow through the ball valve.  Most barbeque grill safety valves incorporate the safety valve and the solenoid into one process.  DCS uses a ball valve like the other control valves in the barbecue but instead of the valve connecting the flow of gas to the rotisserie burner the DCS valve connects to a button that allows the cook to push the button and hold the solenoid open for gas to flow.

The solenoid inside the rotisserie valve is always going to be in the closed position so gas cannot flow unless something causes the solenoid to open.  When lighting the burner that something is us pushing the knob “in” so gas flows but after 30 seconds from ignition what happens?

Next to the infrared rotisserie burner is the electrode that arcs when lighting the burner.  Next to the rotisserie igniter electrode is another piece of metal that sticks out in the flames.  This is a thermocouple.  A thermocouple is a way of generating a small millivolt charge without using a battery or any conventional means of power.  When specific kinds of metals conduct heat against one another a millivolt charge is created.  The millivolt charge travels through a wire inside a copper sleeve from the tip in the flames all the way down to the solenoid — whether the solenoid is in the ball valve control or in a button that connects to the control valve the thermocouple ends with a piece of steel like a bolt attached to the copper tubing.

Just like in high school physics electrical charge plus copper plus steel equals an electro-magnet.  The threaded bolt that screws into the end of the safety valve magnetizes and pulls the safety valve open.  The flames at the rotisserie burner create a charge and the charge creates a magnet and the magnet pulls the valve open so gas can flow.  Now we can take our hand off the button, off the valve without the flames going out.

When this does not work there are a few things that may need attention.  Initially it is important to check the tip of the thermocouple because carbon deposits generated by burning gas could coat the tip and make it less able to create its millivolt charge.  Also check the copper line for kinks and breaks that stop the millivolt from creating a magnet at the steel tip.  Finally check the threading that screws into the safety valve.  Sometimes it is possible for the heating and cooling to cause expansion and contraction that can slowly unscrew the steel so the magnetic tip is less effective.

If something is damaged or broken and proper maintenance as mentioned above does not help it may be possible to exchange the thermocouple.  It is rare the thermocouple is damaged as the thermocouple has no moving parts.  Without moving parts there is nothing to get damaged or wear out.  However, kinks, bends, dirt and carbon can make the thermocouple less effective.  Also the solenoid can get stuck inside the control valve so that a weaker thermocouple cannot pull it free.  For these reasons sometimes replacing the thermocouple will repair the rotisserie burner.

If the thermocouple is not the problem the safety valve needs to be exchanged.  Like the control valves the safety valve has lubrication in the valve body.  Sometimes over-heating while grilling and grease firs cause the valves to over heat and the lubrication becomes fricive.  In this case the valve has to be replaced.  The safety valve can also slowly become less lubricated or get a little dirt in the body so the solenoid becomes stuck.  If a stronger thermocouple or new item can pull the solenoid free the rotisserie will function.  However, most of the time the rotisserie burner will not stay lit it is because the safety valve itself needs to be exchanged.

As you will see from the images above each barbecue is different and each valve connects differently.  As mentioned the DCS safety valve is a button that connects to the control valve connecting the the gas manifold.  The Viking barbeque grill bolts through the manifold and the Solaire safety valve includes the control valve that screws into threading in the manifold.

Always use high quality replacement parts when repairing your barbecue grill and use certified technical assistance.

http://www.grill-repair.com

954.247.4552

Service@Grill-Repair.com

dcs rotisserie button

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This is a video we just uploaded to Facebook.  We have not used Facebook in the past for disseminating gas grill replacement parts information but we are beginning to put some content on there now.

Glow plugs are becoming popular again after going out of production 10 years ago.  As a previous blog post discussed Lynx just discontinued the glow plug repair kits in favor of forcing customers to buy hot-surface kits.  The technology os the same but the glow plugs are mounted differently so they do not get bumped around at all.  The glow plug monofilament is fragile when it is hot and can be easily damaged when in use or just following ignition.  Take a look:

glow plug video

The glow plug lights up like a light bulb without the glass bulb so the ignition is a constant instead of the momentary arcing of a traditional ignition electrode.  The Lynx glow plugs look like this:

Lynx Glow Plug ignition electrode

there is a bend just like the double prong arcing electrode Lynx used in 2006.  The mounting bracket is the same as the lynx electrodes sine their 1998 inception.  Instead of purchasing glow plugs — which are becoming more expensive now that Lynx discontinued them — many clients are using the battery powered module kit with the extra glow plugs and many Lynx users are also going back to the 2006 Lynx ignition system.  In 2006 Lynx used a double prong electrode without a collector box which is the same electrode used by Solaire, Alfresco, TEC and Viking.  These are perfect for infrared grills especially because the electrode is kept clean by the intense heat and there is no collector box to warp or rust.

Glow Plug module uses "D" batteries for extra strength.

Moving back to the older ignition system can be used with the 110v transformer and can be used with the “D” battery module or an all-in-one module that is one part that has the battery, button and module together.  These all-in-one modules have never been a stock grill part for Lynx but the same idea can work by mounting in the control panel like the pre2002 Lynx barbecue models that had rotary knob modules.

Many people believe the igniter is always the first thing to break in any barbecue grill.  Not true.  However, batteries have to be changed and it is possible to get some grease and dirt to the electrode because it must be inside the grilling area.  If we get inside the barbecue once or twice a year and clean off the steel posts of the igniter electrodes they will possibly last forever so long as we remember one well-placed drop of grease can foul the plug so it needs to be sprayed with a de-greaser.

Have fun!

http://www.grill-repair.com

Tweet This Post

This is a video we just uploaded to Facebook.  We have not used Facebook in the past for disseminating gas grill replacement parts information but we are beginning to put some content on there now.

Glow plugs are becoming popular again after going out of production 10 years ago.  As a previous blog post discussed Lynx just discontinued the glow plug repair kits in favor of forcing customers to buy hot-surface kits.  The technology os the same but the glow plugs are mounted differently so they do not get bumped around at all.  The glow plug monofilament is fragile when it is hot and can be easily damaged when in use or just following ignition.  Take a look:

glow plug video

The glow plug lights up like a light bulb without the glass bulb so the ignition is a constant instead of the momentary arcing of a traditional ignition electrode.  The Lynx glow plugs look like this:

Lynx Glow Plug ignition electrode

there is a bend just like the double prong arcing electrode Lynx used in 2006.  The mounting bracket is the same as the lynx electrodes sine their 1998 inception.  Instead of purchasing glow plugs — which are becoming more expensive now that Lynx discontinued them — many clients are using the battery powered module kit with the extra glow plugs and many Lynx users are also going back to the 2006 Lynx ignition system.  In 2006 Lynx used a double prong electrode without a collector box which is the same electrode used by Solaire, Alfresco, TEC and Viking.  These are perfect for infrared grills especially because the electrode is kept clean by the intense heat and there is no collector box to warp or rust.

Glow Plug module uses "D" batteries for extra strength.

Moving back to the older ignition system can be used with the 110v transformer and can be used with the “D” battery module or an all-in-one module that is one part that has the battery, button and module together.  These all-in-one modules have never been a stock grill part for Lynx but the same idea can work by mounting in the control panel like the pre2002 Lynx barbecue models that had rotary knob modules.

Many people believe the igniter is always the first thing to break in any barbecue grill.  Not true.  However, batteries have to be changed and it is possible to get some grease and dirt to the electrode because it must be inside the grilling area.  If we get inside the barbecue once or twice a year and clean off the steel posts of the igniter electrodes they will possibly last forever so long as we remember one well-placed drop of grease can foul the plug so it needs to be sprayed with a de-greaser.

Have fun!

http://www.grill-repair.com

Tweet This Post

Also, these techniques are useful in boosting your confidence and junking cravings for delicious foods. However, physicians don't recognize these strategies as a systematic way to lose weight. The hypnotherapy can be applied successfully on an individual only when he is highly susceptible and submissive to the hypnotizing techniques implemented by the hypnotherapist.

The arguable nature of the hypnosis methods make it essential for an individual to do a thorough research before choosing an alternative weightloss technique. Some of the medicinal practitioners accept these mediums as a further solution to lose pounds. But these techniques are not efficacious in shedding weight of an individual all alone.

But you can find many people who can attest for the efficacy of these hypnotherapy treatments in losing their unwanted bulges. These folk choose the treatment along with following a nutritious diet and routine exercise regime. When you decide to lose weigh thru these hypnotizing techniques, it's also really vital to check the background, credentials and experience of the hypnotherapist.

The experienced hypnotherapists spend a while with the patient to appreciate his behaviour. These professionals also customise the hypnotherapy treatments by researching the psychology of the patient. When the patient is under hypnosis, they increased the level of concentration to help him to beat his mistakes having a unfavourable impact on weight loss. The professionals usually use ideas to make the patient follow a proper diet and overcome longings. Once the patients like the proper diet and frequent exercising, they can follow a regular routine to increase the speed of shedding weight.

Richard Barker has been performing as a corporate entertainer for many years. He's also got a hypnosis course available!